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Suggestions for improvement, ideas for the new 3D

markus

markus

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Please write here all ideas and suggestions.
I collect you together in the first post.
Please write precisely and briefly, if possible with pictures / drawings.
I have already made a list and can complete it

- battery boxes bigger ...a connected BMS (PCM-L07S12) should fit in the box Dimensions?
- three sonars sensors in the front with adjustable "view" angel ... to adjust the sense area Optional?
-In front an extra box (for example for R-PI, Cam modul, Lidar..etc)
- No position for emergency switch/kill switch
- On Thingiverse, there exist one mow motor mounting bracked which needs lots of support to print (Mower box holder left). There is an other one, which is better (Mower box holder right). Because they are symmetrically, it is better to print the right part twice.
- Bumper not clear (which kind of bumper, how to mount)
- option to use only one cutter motor with a greater cutting area ... 1 motor should reduce the power consumption ...
 
Hello, my first ideas, wishes:
- three sonars sensors in the front with adjustable "view" angel ... to adjust the sense area
- a bumper tube should go around the whole chassis, means the wheels should be covered, tube is mounted outside
- possibility to mount raspberry pi zero including cam modul in the front
- option to use only one cutter motor with a greater cutting area ... 1 motor should reduce the power consumption ...
- battery boxes bigger ...a connected BMS (PCM-L07S12) should fit in the box

Michael
 
Hi,

my ideas, discovered problems:

- increase outer wall of rim. There are areas at the outer most circle of rim where the wall is only 1mm thick. I assume this will break easily. (I may add a picture to clarify more what I mean)
- Sonar missing
- No position for emergency switch/kill switch
- Blade protection (parts 14/15) do have razor sharp corners. These corners will not be printed good if printed with mounting holes on print surface (standing upright). The last few mm are printed with under extrusion on my printer because they where smaller than noozle diameter (0,55mm extrusion width). (I may add a picture here too)
- some parts are not necessary. On Thingiverse, there exist one mow motor mounting bracked which needs lots of support to print (Mower box holder left). There is an other one, which is better (Mower box holder right). Because they are symmetrically, it is better to print the right part twice.
- I also need a slightly larger battery box (width is ok, height and length must be larger to fit my battery)
- PI mounting position and camera is missing
- Bumper not clear (which kind of bumper, how to mount)

Patrick
 
Paddy schrieb:
Hi,

my ideas, discovered problems:

- increase outer wall of rim. There are areas at the outer most circle of rim where the wall is only 1mm thick. I assume this will break easily. (I may add a picture to clarify more what I mean)
- Blade protection (parts 14/15) do have razor sharp corners. These corners will not be printed good if printed with mounting holes on print surface (standing upright). The last few mm are printed with under extrusion on my printer because they where smaller than noozle diameter (0,55mm extrusion width). (I may add a picture here too)
Patrick
Zum Vergrößern anklicken....

Please show pictures. That explains it better. :)
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet von einem Moderator:
A suggestion for the wheels.
Close the back of the wheel. More stability and less space for dirt.
RADgeschlossen.jpg

Attachment: https://forum.ardumower.de/data/media/kunena/attachments/191/RADgeschlossen.jpg/
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet von einem Moderator:
Yes, exactly my point on dirt. The blades will stuff those with quite a lot of grass and weight.

In addition to that the rim is slightly wider on the back part, so spikes are printed on supports.
IMG_20181201_143911_2018-12-04-2.jpg

It takes quite some time and effort to clean it up if printed in PETG (supports tend to stick well to the part).

I have printed the wheel with back part covered and rim at the same level with the back part.
It looks like this then right after the spiders finished weaving their webs after bit of cleaning up
IMG_20181203_220514.jpg

And the back side of the wheel
IMG_20181203_220527.jpg


Printed in one go on my CR-10/PETG/0,6mm
Attachment: https://forum.ardumower.de/data/media/kunena/attachments/4472/IMG_20181201_143911_2018-12-04-2.jpg/
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet von einem Moderator:
Hello,

here are some pictures of what I'm talking earlier.

First, measure this place (backside of rim), I only get 1.13mm (0,55 Extrusion width, Noozle diameter 0,5mm) which is not really sturdy. I use PETG, so it is really flexible here. In my opinion, this wall should be thicker. I checked STL file in Fusion 360 and it seem to be only 1mm width.

IMG_20181204_194349.jpg

I fixed this by addind an cylinder around the rim and joined them to one part
rim_fixed.png


Also the inner part of rim, where you attach the motor spanner, should also be changed. You need support to print this area because there are 4 mounting holes for the screws. If these wholes will not go through the whole part, we can print it without support. I try to explain it with this picture, it shows the backside of rim, which normally lays on print surface. The red schematics is a cut view of this area. On the left (bad), the holes go through the whole way. This means, printer will not handle this properly without support. On the right (good) the holes go not the total way, instead, there is a small bridge (1-2 layers), so you need no support to print (I always try to avoid support). You only need a drill and four seconds of time to fix the hole.
rim.png


Also, here are some pictures of part 14/15, which is one part of blade protection. I printed it upwards without support like this
15_Fehler.png


The last few layers gets sliced wrong. As you can see in preview, Slic3r adds some additional material at the corner, more important, slic3r adds some underextrusion. This is caused by extrusion width of 0,55mm but the part is smaller here. To print a smaller wall, like 0,3mm, it is only possible by under-extrusion which results in a working, but not nice print. In my oppinion, this corner sould not formed like a blade, instead it should be rounded or so

15_Fehler_nah.png

IMG_20181204_194508.jpg


Does anyone has a STL file of the wheelcap without the AM? I want to replace it with our logo (sheep). I tried to change it with Fusion 360 but it gets inconsistent as soon as I try to merge the objects.
Attachment: https://forum.ardumower.de/data/media/kunena/attachments/2946/IMG_20181204_194349.jpg/
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet von einem Moderator:
One more thing,

the PCB lid cover has a weak point, the hinge. I saw a picture some where (maybe on Markus attachment) where the hinge was broken. In my opinion, they are way to small. They should be either more robust/wider or distinct parts so we can replace broken hinges without printing lid cover or PCB Box again and again.
Also, I will add a small screw at the opposite side of hinge (PCB lid/whell end), so it stays closed in any case, also if something hits the PCB cover (imagine you run under a bush and when driving back, it opens the PCB cover) This screw (maybe three of them) will be a "Rädelschraube" (don't know the english name of this kind of screws)
 
The interior must be closed, so that no dirt enters.
The bottom should be as smooth as possible, so that no dirt can get stuck and is easy to clean.
Sorry for my English :)
 
Not yet. I'm currently printing the lower parts. The cover will follows the next couple of days.

I had to do many small changes and some fixes to make print more easily like avoid Support.
 
Do you share your modified parts?

I already printed the 3 upper rear parts with a lot of support. The next parts without much support would be awesome ;)
 
I will share all my files, but I started to print the parts under the cover, like motor boxes, frame parts, wheels and so on. I recentl finished the PCB cover with camera mount. Now, the PCB lid cover doesn't need support anymore.

Robins design looks awesome but it is hard to print with such a lot support. I will start to modify the upper chassis parts (the white one on the pictures) this weekend.
 
Anyone has suggestions on printing parts 1,2 (the arches over the wheels) and 3 (the "screen" on the back that connects those parts)?

Arches require a lot of supports and the connection for the arch is very small. Easy to break off even by simply trying to remove the supports.
IMG_20181127_224043_2018-12-12.jpg


The central part also complicated in terms of printing. If printed horizontally, supports will be required for the hollow parts where the wheel arches are inserted..
This may end up being too tight for the parts to join.
IMG_20181127_223617_2018-12-12.jpg

Attachment: https://forum.ardumower.de/data/media/kunena/attachments/4472/IMG_20181127_224043_2018-12-12.jpg/
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet von einem Moderator:
Hi,

please find attached all STL files, I've edited. Most edits are done to avoid support. Motorboxes where edited because I want some additions.

The archive contains the following parts:
- Motor Box lid right (no support needed, use a drill to complete the hole for chassis damper)
- Motor Box lid left (nearly no support, use a drill to complete the hole for chassis damper)
- Motor Box right, added some holes for charging plug and one for a control lamp (https://www.reichelt.de/signalleuchte-rot-28-v-10-mm-rund-faston-rafi-105-1301-p110908.html?)
- Motor Box left, added one hole for key switch (I use a keyed switch instead of common main switch to avoid unwanted turn offs)
- Chassis brackets left/right printable without support
- PCB Cover front with addition for RPI camera, no support (mounting holes on print surface, upstanding)
- PCB Cover back printable without support (mounting holes on print surface, upstanding)
- rim/wheel now more robust, closed on inner side, no support needed
- Front right, printable without support (larger flat side on print surface). Use a drill to complete the mounting holes, they are designed for this kind of screw https://www.schrauben-lexikon.de/norm/DIN_912.asp
 
I also wonder how to print these parts best. For the "display" part which connects everything, it might be a good idea to add some some clearance so it joins better.
Which material do you use? PLA, ABS, PETG?
 
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