ERROR - SWITCHING OFF (undervoltage) - bitte helfen!

[jschwalbe]

Hallo, bitte haben Sie etwas Geduld, da ich nur Englisch spreche. Dies ist von Google Translate (Original in Englisch ist unten). Ich habe einen Fehler mit meinem Roboter. Das Protokoll zeigt weiterhin

ABSCHALTEN (Unterspannung)

.
Der Roboter denkt, dass die Spannung 0,00 ist:

08:02:08.261 -> 0:0:14 ctlDur=0.02 op=0 freem=245399 sp=2000126C volt=0.00 chg=0.00 tg=0.00,0.00 x=0.00 y=0.00 delta=0.00 tow=43346200 lon=-86.x lat=41.x h=223.0 n=-2264.58 e=-20722.76 d=30.23 sol=0 age=1.19

Mein Akku ist voll aufgeladen. Die Spannung beträgt 28,6 V. Die 25V-LED leuchtet, auch die restlichen Platinen-LEDs leuchten.

Gibt es ein Teil auf der Platine, das die Spannung misst, damit ich es auf Fehler überprüfen kann?

Danke!

Ich habe übrigens auch hier gepostet (https://forum.ardumower.de/threads/...-was-bedeuten-zwei-pieptöne.24766/#post-53585) , aber es könnte ein PCB-Problem anstelle eines Softwareproblems sein, also habe ich stattdessen hier gepostet.

----English below----

Hello, please bear with me because I only speak English.
I have an error with my robot. The log keeps showing

SWITCHING OFF (undervoltage)

.
The robot thinks that the voltage is 0.00:

08:02:08.261 -> 0:0:14 ctlDur=0.02 op=0 freem=245399 sp=2000126C volt=0.00 chg=0.00 tg=0.00,0.00 x=0.00 y=0.00 delta=0.00 tow=43346200 lon=-86.x lat=41.x h=223.0 n=-2264.58 e=-20722.76 d=30.23 sol=0 age=1.19

My battery is fully charged. The Voltage is 28.6V. The 25V LED lights up, also the rest of the PCB LEDs light up.

Is there a part on the PCB that measures the voltage so I can check it for errors?

Thank you!

PS I also posted here (https://forum.ardumower.de/threads/...-was-bedeuten-zwei-pieptöne.24766/#post-53585), but it might be a PCB problem instead of a software problem.

 

[jschwalbe]

22:41:24.150 -> trying to detect Bluetooth 4.0/BLE module (make sure your phone is NOT connected)115200...
22:41:24.653 -> BLE: AT
22:41:26.658 -> error: no BLE module found!
22:41:26.658 -> SERIAL_BUFFER_SIZE=1024 (increase if you experience GPS checksum errors)
22:41:26.658 -> -----------------------------------------------------
22:41:26.658 -> UBLOX::begin serial
22:41:26.658 -> UBLOX::begin
22:41:26.658 -> trying to connect to ublox f9p...
22:41:26.658 -> NOTE: if GPS is not responding either set 'GPS_CONFIG=false' in config.h or perform GPS wire fix (see Wiki)
22:41:26.658 -> trying baud 115200
22:41:29.955 -> ERROR: GPS receiver is not responding
22:41:29.955 -> trying baud 38400
22:41:30.217 -> GPS receiver found!
22:41:30.217 -> ublox f9p: sending GPS rover configuration...
22:41:30.217 -> idx=0...OK
22:41:30.217 -> idx=1...OK
22:41:30.217 -> idx=2...OK
22:41:30.279 -> config sent successfully
22:41:30.279 -> sizeof Point=4
22:41:30.279 -> map dump - mapCRC=0
22:41:30.279 -> points:
22:41:30.279 -> perimeter pts: 0
22:41:30.279 -> exclusion pts: 0
22:41:30.279 -> exclusions: 0
22:41:30.279 -> dock pts: 0
22:41:30.279 -> mow pts: 0
22:41:30.279 -> free pts: 0
22:41:30.279 -> mowPointsIdx=0 dockPointsIdx=0 freePointsIdx=0 wayMode=3
22:41:30.720 -> WIFI (ESP8266) not found! If the problem persist, you may need to flash your ESP to firmware 2.2.172
22:41:30.761 -> MPU6050/9150/9250/9255 not found - Did you connect AD0 to 3.3v and choose it in config.h?
22:41:33.241 -> SWITCHING OFF (undervoltage)
22:41:33.241 -> CPU: PTAT=826 CTAT=884 deg=26.63 voltages: I/O=3.34 Core=1.22 VBAT=2.06
22:41:33.241 -> 0:0:13 ctlDur=0.00 op=0 freem=247379 sp=2000126C volt=0.00 chg=0.00 tg=0.00,0.00 x=0.00 y=0.00 delta=0.00 tow=268909400 lon=0.00000000 lat=0.00000000 h=0.0 n=0.00 e=0.00 d=0.00 sol=0 age=13.11
22:41:38.216 -> 0:0:18 ctlDur=0.02 op=0 freem=247351 sp=2000108C volt=0.00 chg=0.00 tg=0.00,0.00 x=0.00 y=0.00 delta=0.00 tow=268916200 lon=0.00000000 lat=0.00000000 h=0.0 n=0.00 e=0.00 d=0.00 sol=0 age=0.80
22:41:38.216 -> SWITCHING OFF (undervoltage)

22:41:30.761 -> MPU6050/9150/9250/9255 not found - Did you connect AD0 to 3.3v and choose it in config.h?
Ist das wichtig für die voltage?
MPU ist angeschlossen. 3v3 ist ausgewählt.

 

[Svolo]

Hello @jschwalbe,

can you please take photos of the front and back of the PCB1.4 with your actual wireing? Please take the pictures detailed and in direct plan view.
Also from the modules connected by cable (MPU, ESP32, etc.)

After this please take photos of the front and back of the PCB1.4 without the cables connected and without the modules (M4, dc/dc converter, adapter board, rtc) plugged in. Please take the pictures detailed and in direct plan view. (

Which Sunray version do you have installed?

Please share the settings of your config.h (remove passwords, ip adresses or privat information if you added any).

regards,
Sven

 

[jschwalbe]

Sven, Thank you so much for your time. It means the world to me.
Sunray version is 230




Here is my config.h:

[CODE]// Ardumower Sunray// Copyright (c) 2013-2020 by Alexander Grau, Grau - Pastebin.com

Pastebin.com is the number one paste tool since 2002. Pastebin is a website where you can store text online for a set period of time.

pastebin.com

Lastly, I will mention that I am using ardumower-modem on the esp32. It connects and seems to be working well. I can connect over wifi and bluetooth with it.

At one point, I was able to drive the robot and cut grass via joystick. Then without warning or explanation that stopped working. I am not sure what I did to break it

 

[Svolo]

Hello @jschwalbe,

There seems to be some solder residue on the circuit board, which in the worst case can come loose and make contact where none should be.
Also, some of the solder joints don't look well soldered, or it's not clear to see if they are cold solder joints.
I have marked some unclear points in red.
Please also shorten the protruding wire ends from the soldered capacitors and the LED bar. By accidentally bending them, they can also create connections where none belong.



Please check every solder joint you have made whether it looks like the two marked with "OK" in the instructions. If not, please rework them. Bad solder joints can cause a lot of problems and strange phenomena. The complete english instruction can be found here: Ardumower_Mainboard_V1.4_Assembly_Instruction


If you have checked, corrected and cleaned all the soldering points, we can go on with some measurements to check why the voltage is not shown in the serial monitor.

Do you have a laboratory power supply with an adjustable output voltage (if possible 24V DC) and an adjustable current limit? If not, the battery will also work.

regards
Sven

 

[Hartmut]

Den losen Kondensator auf der Treiberplatine durch einen mit ähnlichen Werten und mit Draht ersetzen. Der originale Kondensator lässt sich nicht einfach anlöten.

 

[jschwalbe]

Den losen Kondensator auf der Treiberplatine durch einen mit ähnlichen Werten und mit Draht ersetzen. Der originale Kondensator lässt sich nicht einfach anlöten.

Do you think that would be enough to cause the error? I will need to find a similar capacitor somewhere. Can you tell me what other values would be acceptable? I do not know about these things at all (if not already obvious). Thanks!
--
Meint ihr das reicht um den Fehler zu verursachen? Ich muss irgendwo einen ähnlichen Kondensator finden. Können Sie mir sagen, welche anderen Werte akzeptabel wären? Ich weiß überhaupt nichts über diese Dinge (wenn nicht schon offensichtlich). Vielen Dank!

 

[Mr. Tree]

You should wait for some experts comment like Hartmut or bernard. The Board works, but if the Analog in isnt reading a voltage, there must be something wrong on Hardwareside. Do you have a Laboratory Powersource? If you can, read the Amps the board consumes. The 2 Peeps is the indicator from the board/code on it to shut off because off undervoltage (reading nothing at analog in in your case)

 

[Svolo]

Can you tell me what other values would be acceptable?

You can use a radial leaded electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of 47uF (47 microfarad) and a rated voltage of 50V or higher (63V, 80V, 100V). If possible take one with an endurance of minimum 2000 hours at 105 °C.
The black mark on the original capacitor indicates the negative pole. It is important to pay attention to the correct polarity when replacing the capacitor.

regards,
Sven

 

[Svolo]

At one point, I was able to drive the robot and cut grass via joystick. Then without warning or explanation that stopped working. I am not sure what I did to break it

I understand that it might seem odd to have you check all the solder joints even though the mower was running once. The fact that the mower no longer runs can have something to do with the loose capacitor, but it can also be caused by a bad soldered connection, for example. Since the voltage is also not displayed correctly in the serial monitor and some of the solder joints in the photos look like bad solder joints to me, I prefer to start with the solder joints on the PCB1.4 to ensure that these are not the cause of the problems that have occurred.

regards,
Sven

 

[Mr. Tree]

The loose capacitor could be the effect of something else, and not the cause itself. When you repair it, you should use a laboratory powersource and limit the current it will output. That way you would protect everything until your issue is resolved, and maybe read that there must be a short or so somewhere.

 

[Svolo]

Hello @jschwalbe,
If you have checked everything on the PCB1.4 so far, I would start again from scratch:
- remove all plugged-in modules (M4, dc/dc converter, GPS, ESP32, etc.). Also remove jumper JP1.

I still haven't got an answer to my question about a laboratory power supply, but as Mr. Tree also notes, it's very helpful when getting started. If you have one, set the output voltage on 24V DC and the current limitation to 0.2A (200mA). Otherwise, you can also start commissioning with the battery.

If you start with battery, please keep in mind to disconnect the battery immediately if something unexpected occurs (smoke arises, LED's that should light up don't light up, etc.).

- place a jumper on the switch-on button (P20)
- place a jumper on JP8 in position “Dauer-ON”
- connect the power (lab power supply or battery) to P43. Pay attention to correct polarity.

Now the following LED’s should light up:
+24V, Dual1 and Dual2.

- disconnect the power.
- plug in the dc/dc-converter.
- connect power
- setup the 9V output voltage
- disconnect power
- place jumper JP1
- connect power

Now the following LED’s should light up:
+24V, Dual1, Dual2, +5VP and +3.3VP.

- disconnect power
- install the RTC-Modul and the Grand Central M4 Express.
- connect power

Now the following LED’s should light up:
+24V, Dual1, Dual2, +3.3V, +5V, +5VP and +3.3VP.

- disconnect power
- remove the jumper from the switch-on button (P20)
- connect the correct switch-on button to P20.
- install the IMU (MPU6050 for example)
- connect power and switch on the system by the "switch-on button"
- install the sunray version 1.0.230 with your config.h file (make shure that you have defined the GPS-CONFIG to false. Otherwise the M4 will end up in loop by searching for GPS-Modul)

//#define GPS_CONFIG   true     // configure GPS receiver (recommended - requires GPS wire fix above! otherwise firmware will stuck at boot!)
#define GPS_CONFIG   false  // do not configure GPS receiver (no GPS wire fix required)

- after a reboot of the M4 you should hear a few piep sounds
- connect by serial monitor and check if the voltage is now shown in the log.

Please let me know the result of the log.

regards,
Sven

 

[Mr. Tree]

That could be added in the manual?

 

[W1976]

That could be added in the manual?

Müssen wir mit Uwe klären der Vater des Mainboards. Sollte aber kein Problem sein.

 

[W1976]

I have contact Uwe Kurzschuss, he is the father of the PCB 1.4. I think he can help you!

 

[jschwalbe]

Thank you for the instructions. Sadly, I am 320 km from my home right now for our holiday! I will attack this when I return home! (I am very excited to have some steps to follow.)

 

[Svolo]

Hallo @W1976, @Mr. Tree und @kurzschuss,

selbstverständlich dürfen diese Schritte gerne in Anleitungen mit einfließen.
Ich möchte allerdings zu bedenken geben, dass dieses meine persönliche Herangehensweise an das von jschwalbe genannte Problem ist (keine Spannungsanzeige im log --> Unterspannungsabschaltung). Grundlagen mit kleinen und leicht nachvollziehbaren Schritten schaffen um dann gezielter das Problem eingrenzen zu können und nur so viel Hardware wie nötig in Betrieb zu nehmen. Wenn trotz dieser minimal Inbetriebnahme die Spannung immer noch mit 0.00V im Log erscheint, würde ich durch Messungen vom Spannungsteiler R12/R13 über den Vorwiderstand R84 bis zum Analogeingang AD2 den Pfad kontrollieren lassen.

Wenn eine andere Vorgehensweise empfohlen wird, bin auch ich über jede weitere Unterstützung für jschwalbe dankbar.

Falls es für jemanden von Interesse ist, habe ich die Pin-Belegung inkl. der in Sunray 1.0.230 verwendeten Namen in der rückseitigen Draufsicht des M4 als PDF angehängt. Mir hat dieses beim Auffinden der Pins im gesteckten Zustand geholfen, wenn man mal was nachmessen wollte. Die Liste ist allerdings noch nicht komplett fertig.

Gruß
Sven

 

[jschwalbe]

The loose capacitor could be the effect of something else, and not the cause itself. When you repair it, you should use a laboratory powersource and limit the current it will output. That way you would protect everything until your issue is resolved, and maybe read that there must be a short or so somewhere.

The loose capacitor was caused by my fat fingers ! Ha!

..

Gruß
Sven

I cleaned up all the solder joints, but the same problem occurs in the console.

I followed your directions..
1. "Now the following LED's should light up: +24V, Dual1 and Dual2." - YES
2. "Now the following LED's should light up: +24V, Dual1, Dual2, +5VP and +3.3VP." - YES

THEN I decided to try to upload fresh firmware.
It worked. (Voltage is correct in the log!)
So I compared the differences between the files and noticed this, which seems to have caused the problem:

#define DRV_SERIAL_ROBOT  1
#define DRV_ARDUMOWER     1   // keep this for Ardumower

When I comment out DRV_SERIAL_ROBOT, the voltage displays correctly.

A frustrating experience, but I'm happy that I have found the right path! Thank you to all who have helped me on the way.

I am not sure why I uncommented that, but maybe a warning should be placed in the config_example to take care with that line!

 

[Mr. Tree]

Best is to find out, that it wasnt a hardware issue. It took me several weeks for building and testing.
Had problems too, but was so glad when everything worked out without major failures.

 

[Svolo]

I'm glad you found the cause and that it is “only“ a problem in the configuration.
To avoid this in future maybe @AlexanderG could generate a console output if more than one machine driver is configured.

regards Sven