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Using a BLDC 8015a for the mowing motor

Hi Juergen,

No i have no code, but it is not to difficult to add :

Here are two examples (not tested because just written here, may be some compilation issue...)

in motor.cpp

In void Motor::test() {

Just add at the beginning the following code, it will start the mowing motor at full speed

while (1) {

speedPWM(0, 0, 255);
sense();
watchdogReset();
robotDriver.run();
}


You my try the following code if you want the speed to increase by 10 every 2 seconds until speed = 240 (it will be reset to 0).

byte spd = 0;
unsigned long wait_t = millis();

while (1) {

speedPWM(0, 0, spd);
if ( (millis() - wait_t ) > 2000) {
spd += 10 ;
Wait_t = millis() ;
if (spd == 250) {
spd = 0 ;
}
}
sense();
watchdogReset();
robotDriver.run();
}

If you need some more help don't hesitate to ask.



For information my 8015a is working fine!

Stephane.
 
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Dear Stephane,
thanks a lot, this will help.
What about your pull-up of 10k at PWM line? Where did you place it? And you were talking about an original 1k pullup. Did you remove it?

Best regards,
Juergen
 
Hello,


As I wrote before, i applied the pull up modification for the mowing motor only according to the link

Brushless Adapter – www.wiki.ardumower.de

wiki.ardumower.de wiki.ardumower.de

But for the 1k on the PWM line you have change it for a bigger value because if you keep the 1k you will not be able to get the full speed.

10k will be ok.

If you want to fine tune the system you can put a 4.7k in serial with a 4.7k trimmer so you can change the value.
If you use this idea, you will have to put a code ine the AT+E command that will increase the mow motor speed by 10 every 2 seconds and display the value in console. You will heard the sound of the blade increasing during the test.
If the value of the trimmer is set to low, the sound will not increase as the value of the PWM will still increasing.
You have to set the trimmer to be able to heard the sound increasing when the PWM is near 255.
Not easy to explain and not too accurate but it worked very wel for me.

You can also still use the 10k resistor, you will have good results.

Stephane.
 
I identified the 1k pullup here:

IMG_20220422_104824_2.jpg

It's going to 5V coming from 7805. But these 5V are not sent to he driver, correct? Means the 10k need to be located on the BLA1.1

Best regards,
Juergen
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet:
I have a 1.0 BLDC this is why I spoke about the pull up patch.
In you case, yes you will have to remove the 1k from your board.
I am afrind, you will have to put the trimmer instead the 1k pull up, because on the terminals of the 8015A you don't have any 5V...

As i suggested too, it will be a good idea to put it in serial with the trimmer a 4.7k resistor.
The purpose of this resistor will be to not allow the value of the pull up to be near 0R if you turn the trimmer too much on a side.
With this resistor the min value will be 4.7k. Without the value could reach 0R (or at lesat less than 500R) and the pull up will be too strong!

On my board, i glued the trimmer (with some wires) so that i can easely acces it when the board is plug.

Stephane
 
Dears,
my 57BL03 Mower Motor is now runnung with the 8015A driver. I am able to control it with AT+E

BUT:

At the beginning of the tests I blew up the main fuse EF2. I replaced it and started tests again. EF2 and the MOSFET are getting hot (you can smell it). The motor itself is also getting warm. ~50°.
Now I am wondering if I have a defect with the 57BL03!? Checking the current that goes in the 8015A, I can read 2,7A at idle speed. What do you think? What could it be and what tests could I perform to find the bug?

Best regards,
Juergen
 
Hello Juergen,

I think your mapping U V W and Hall A Hall B and Hall C is not correct. I'm using JYQD BL Driver for my mower and drive motors. As I tried to connect my motors to the drivers I had some wrong connection and I also got high current to the motor and warming um of the driver

Cheers
Alexander
 
Juergen,

I was also thinking the hall sensors are not connected in the right order.
Could you upload a photo ?
I could check in the evening with my own driver. This may help.
 
Hello Alexander,

I can confirm, that I swapped V and W. Now the temperature is OK (25°). Thanks for your hint, I feel stupid.
Anyhow I still observe 2 thins:
1) The Motor does not start, often times. It needs a little push, then the motor runs properly.
2) I can't get 5V on the AVI input (3,7 V max.) I played around with the pull up. like Stephane suggested. Now I have 3,2 k and I don't want to go too low.

Any more hints, especially on1)?

Best regards,
Juergen
 
The photo was to check if one hall sensor was not inverted. I read that now it ok : good for that.

The pin 'AVI input' use a PWM signal, so it may be ok if you don't have the 5V.

Now your main problem is why do you need to help the motor to start?

Did you try using the internal RV pot control of the 8015A ? It could give us some ideas? Do you hace the same issue with the internal RV pot?

Also do you use a TVS diode on the power supply?
On your picture i had the feelin that you connected the TVS diode between U/V/W (as recommended for the 8308).

I only put A TVS diode on the power supply line on my drv8015a.

And last an advice :
Put a 3.5A fuse on the power line of the driver. I didn't do that and 2 days ago, my mower tried to cut a steel tube that was lying on the grass. As the driver can put up to 15A, it is the main fuse on the main board which burnt (EF2). So i add the fuse on the 8015 line (as if it done one the DRV8308 drivers).
 
Dear Stephane,

it were the TVS diodes! I removed them and now the motor starting every time. Yippie.

I tried both positions of SW1. Both are working, I see or hear no difference. Actually I have it on.

Now TVS de: you only use one. Normally they go to ground, so you simply connect one at the driver between DC+ and DC-, correct? I have these 1.5ke33ca or do you use a differnt one?

Best regards,
Juergen
 
Dear Stephane,

I just ordered fuse and fuse-holder at amazon.

Thanks a lot for your help. To Alexander, also!

Best regards,
Juergen
 
Hi,

I would like to have 8015A as an additional backup for mowing motor.
I do have the BL V1.1 adapter board and want to test:

Just to be on the safe side:

Are these the only steps needed - (in summary)?

- connect parallel cable from adapter board V1.1 according to this thread

- is TVS diode necessary in any case? (I ordered, but it takes some days)
- and TVS between + and - on the 25V input coming from adapter board?

- Anything on the PWM line needed with 4,7k also with board V1.1 (can I try without)

That's it??

Best regards
 
Dear ghost,

- connect parallel cable from adapter board V1.1 according to this thread
Yes

- is TVS diode necessary in any case? (I ordered, but it takes some days)
I can't tell. But in fact these BL motors induce lots of voltage when used as generator. This can kill the driver. In the beginning I had 2 TVS diodes. On each line of the motor one. On advice of Stephane I changed to one at V+/V- If it's really necessary? I can't tell.

- and TVS between + and - on the 25V input coming from adapter board?
yes

- Anything on the PWM line needed with 4,7k also with board V1.1 (can I try without)
I also have board V1.1 and I added the pullup.

Mowing motor is running since then without any problems.

Best regards,
Juergen
 
Thanks a lot Jürgen - so I will be patient until the TVS will arrive.

One additional thought: I am already using the driver protection board between motor and driver with diodes installed. I guess this is not needed anymore - or can it be used instead of TVS?
 
Stephane adviced to use one TVS diode instead. On the other hand, the reverse voltage is inuced by the motor. So if it happens, it would be eliminated by the protection board. From my point of view no need to wait for the new TVS diode; you can change later.

Best regards,
Juergen
 
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