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E1, EF1, EF2 fuses soldered on PCB1.4, explain please?
Just soldering and making videos of putting PCB1.4 together. I was shocked (to put it mildly) about the decision to solder the fuses on PCB1.4. Why make such a decision? E1 I can understand, hard to blow, but EF1 and EF2? Have blown so many of those during the years. Was so easy to change by screwing the fuse holder open putting new in and closing it back. Unless the fuses are self resetting or something this is absolutely horrible idea. All it takes is a rain to start, robot hit very dense (and wet) area of grass in an uphill and puff. Yes, 99% of times all goes well, but when everything aligns and the max power is drawn the fuses can go easily. And I have now pretty much 3 of these robots waiting to hit that 1%.
Unless they are some unknown high tech fuses resetting themselves(?), I will probably just solder them off and put in cables to connect to a proper fuse holder.
Hello @markor,
sorry, I can not explain, why the decision was made to solder the fuses directly. Maybe because it is cheaper.
But you can exchange the fuses against fuse holder for the SMD fuses. Or as you mentioned solder them off and put cables to connect proper fuse holder.
Here is a List with the SMD-fuses und fuse holder: sicherungsgroessen-auf-dem-pcb-1-4-smd-sicherungen
@sven Thank you for the reply! I recon I will go for similar style as I have done with my 1.3's. Would be much easier if it had punch through for the EF1/EF2 like there used to be. BTW when I was looking at the original PCB1.3 drawings it had 5A for EF1 and 10A for EF2. If I read the fine print correctly on the PCB1.4 fuses the EF1 has a 3A and the EF2 a 6.3A fuse. Really con-fusing compared to 1.3 (pun intended). Especially the EF1 being 3A only. Would expect the EF2 6.3A's to blow also a lot. Anyways I'm moving towards mounting the fuse holders in the mower case so that the fuses can be changed without opening the case.
